Regional Institute of Wine and Oil

IRVO celebrates the excellence of Marsala at Vinacria – Ortigia Wine Fest: Gianni Giardina's masterclass on wine that tells the story of Sicily

From 14 to 16 December 2024, Syracuse was transformed into the capital of Sicilian wine and culture: the first edition of the “Vinacria – Ortigia Wine Fest”, with more than 60 wineries, excellent oils, local liqueurs and prestigious guests who crowded the Antico Mercato di Ortigia to celebrate the richness of the territory, between tradition, innovation and the future of the island's food and wine.

Among the most important events of the Festival, the masterclass “Perpetuo and Marsala: two souls, one territory”, held by the IRVO winemaker Gianni Giardina and by sommelier Mauro Lo Iacono. A journey through history, terroir and contemporary challenges, which shines a light on Marsala, symbol of the excellence and uniqueness of Sicilian products.

Marsala: from Sicily to the world

With over two and a half centuries of history, Marsala is a piece of Sicilian culture, an ancient witness to the identity of the Island. Its history begins in 1773, when the English merchant John Woodhouse, attracted by the unique qualities of local wines, introduced fortification techniques and began the production of what would become the first Italian wine with international fame.

“If Sicily is known worldwide for its wines, it is thanks to Marsala,” Giardina emphasizes. For a long time, Marsala has been synonymous with excellence: a wine exported everywhere, from the salons of the European aristocracy to the communities of Italian emigrants in the United States.

However, over the years and with socio-economic changes, Marsala has faced difficult times. After the First World War, prohibition in the United States and the orientation of some companies towards mass production have contributed to tarnishing the quality image of this wine. “Marsala has been reduced to a product for the food industry or a base for flavored creams and has thus lost the prestige it once had,” says the winemaker. Today, however, thanks to the efforts of consortia and institutions such as IRVO, Marsala is experiencing its rebirth, with a return to high quality standards, more conscious promotion and the valorization of its typologies.

29 Shades of Sicily

In fact, one of the most fascinating characteristics of Marsala is its extraordinary variety: the 29 official typologies differ in color, sugar content, aging, production method and each typology is ideal for enhancing particular gastronomic moments.

From accompanying desserts, such as cannoli and cassata, to pairings with savory dishes, Marsala is surprisingly versatile and breaks the stereotype that sees it relegated exclusively to desserts. Its complex notes of dried fruit, spices, honey and vanilla also make it ideal with aged cheeses, braised meats or traditional Sicilian recipes.

Il Perpetuo: the wine from which everything began

“Perpetuo was the wine of the Marsala families, a symbol of celebration and tradition,” says Giardina. This wine, produced with the solera method – where new wine was added to an old base every year – was intended for the most important moments in life: weddings, births and celebrations.” Unlike Marsala, Perpetuo was not alcoholic, but it stood out for its structure and complexity, obtained thanks to traditional techniques such as white fermentation and intense pressing. The result was a long-lived wine, capable of maintaining its qualities intact for decades.

“Reviving the Perpetuo today means recovering an ancient tradition and telling the story of Sicily through its past,” says Giardina.

The role of the territory and the promotion of Marsala

Marsala would not exist without its territory. The production area is mainly concentrated in western Sicily, where the Catarratto, Grillo and Inzolia grapes thrive thanks to a warm and windy climate and mineral-rich soils.

“Sicily is a unique terroir, but the people of Marsala themselves must believe in their product,” says Giardina. The future of Marsala depends on the ability to promote it not only abroad, but also among the inhabitants of Marsala and the entire region. “It is essential that local restaurateurs and producers commit to making it known as a product of excellence,” he adds.

IRVO, with events such as the Vinacria – Ortigia Wine Fest, is working to bring Marsala back to the center of the international wine scene. Through masterclasses, tastings and collaborations with protection consortia, the aim is to strengthen the perception of Marsala as a high-quality wine, capable of competing with the great wines of the world.

Marsala: a story to be rediscovered

Gianni Giardina's masterclass at Vinacria was an opportunity to immerse yourself in the world of Marsala and reflect on its connection to Sicilian history and culture.

Participants had the opportunity to discover the characteristics of this wine and the role it has played in making Sicily one of the most prestigious wine regions in the world. During the event, Giardina underlined the importance of returning to a quality product and focusing on the valorization of Marsala as a wine for all meals and an emblem of the Sicilian tradition.

At Vinacria – Ortigia Wine Fest, IRVO confirmed, once again, the importance of promoting and raising awareness of local excellence. With the support of events like this, Marsala and other local products earn their place of honor in the international wine scene and become the symbol of a centuries-old tradition that still lives today, as a synonym of quality and excellence.